Mini (1980 or earlier)

Not to be too much of downer but do you know what your getting yourself in for with a mini. Theres a serious about of time and money involved in keeping a mini going, even for a heap of shite like mine, the gearbox still needs very regular rebuilds (which is engine out) and decent engines are expensive to build. Just be sure your up to it all.

I've focused on a Mini as I want to get a car that has a good potential to be competitive even if it'll take a while to get there.

One of the other reasons is availability of parts - I'm happy enough to put the work in if I can get the bits.

I'm beginning to think I should scrap the idea of getting a Mini which could be put on the road for multi venues, I could get a newer complete Mini for reasonable money which I could start using just for Autotesting.

J wrote:

I've focused on a Mini as I want to get a car that has a good potential to be competitive even if it'll take a while to get there.

One of the other reasons is availability of parts - I'm happy enough to put the work in if I can get the bits.

I'm beginning to think I should scrap the idea of getting a Mini which could be put on the road for multi venues, I could get a newer complete Mini for reasonable money which I could start using just for Autotesting.

J You want a Mini, or you want a beginners car. At as low a cost as possible.
The answer is as the lads have been saying : NOT a Mini !.
So, if everybody else is doing it a certain way can it be that they are all wrong ?
No !. Therefore a Starlet or a Corsa is the way to go. Piers has a how to build a Starlet post in a couple of places.
Sorry for the lecture but we are only trying to give you a 'good steer' on how to go about getting started

Tim

So basically there's no such thing as a cheap Mini? Wink

	J wrote:
	So basically there's no such thing as a cheap Mini?

To run: Toyota is probably less breakages = cheaper

To acquire: Age : Mini's tend to be rusty so the Toyota/Vauxhall option would be cheaper

So Yes !

Mini's are smaller so 'fit' on a test easier. Lots of the bits were readily available and have become specialised at this stage.

You really make your choice depending on all the factors thar apply

Tim

i hav to disagree. i know im not long at this game but i would advise getting the mini. there so easy to drive and if you do decide to go for a quick car capable of winning a hewison you dont hav to go out and buy another car.
or maybe im biased because i drive 1 Smile

Hi J , I couldn't sell my Midget as it was my first car and I'm very attached to it!
Go on and get a Starlet ......

	guyfo wrote:
	if you do decide to go for a quick car capable of winning a hewison you dont hav to go out and buy another car.

That's something which has been on my mind, I don't want to have to change the car in the future. I only want to buy once Smile

	Patricia wrote:
	Hi J , I couldn't sell my Midget as it was my first car and I'm very attached to it! Go on and get a Starlet ......

No worries Trish...the jury is still out on the Starlet idea Very Happy

Buy a mini, they're the most fun. But buy one thats already prepared. You could possibly get one that will do both the autotests and the multivenues. Has anything other than a mini won the Hewison for the last 30 years??

I have a 1275 Midget with the old non-synchro 1st Gearbox (No good for Autotesting). Anyone know my options for an all synchro conversion? I don't think the 1500 Later type (Spitfire) box will fit and the T9 Ford box conversion from Frontline Looks expensive at just shy of 2k!

I'd like to get an LSD for it too if anyone knows where to get one (Maybe SH)!!

_________________
Paul Ramoutar

Mk1 Cooper S - MGB GT - MGB Roadster - MGB GTV8 - MX-5

All the options for a gearbox conversion can be seen at http://www.midgetandspriteclub.co.uk/
The frontline includes a recon box which would account for a large chunk of the cost - try buying without and source a box on ebay or the like
If you stick with the BMC axle then beside a slippy diff you need stronger shafts - contact http://www.petermayengineering.co.uk/ for both
you also need some anti tram bars and a panhard rod is a good idea to stop the axle eating the inside of the wheel arch
Convert to a ford 105E axle and you can use standard shafts and easier to find LSD

Malcolm wrote:

All the options for a gearbox conversion can be seen at http://www.midgetandspriteclub.co.uk/
The frontline includes a recon box which would account for a large chunk of the cost - try buying without and source a box on ebay or the like
If you stick with the BMC axle then beside a slippy diff you need stronger shafts - contact http://www.petermayengineering.co.uk/ for both
you also need some anti tram bars and a panhard rod is a good idea to stop the axle eating the inside of the wheel arch
Convert to a ford 105E axle and you can use standard shafts and easier to find LSD

Malcolm : did you ever come across the one about Peter May shafts that they are made with a view to racing. As such, whether it be the metal or something else. they are good in racing as the direction of torque/usage is one way. For autotesting they can still prove fragile because of the effect reversing/ reversing the load has and they still break ?

the other reason for the continuing preference for the Ford axle

Tim

Tim - never heard that - I don't think anybody made a shaft as good as the Ford which is considerably thicker and probaly the reason it works - Roger Atkinson and Dick Squire spent years playing with different metals and they still broke - when I first built my car in 1979 we ordered three special tuning shafts and as after three months only one had appeared we got the tape measure out and found the anglebox connection - We have Peter May shafts in the A40 - same as the Midget but longer - when first installed the car was being used on retro events and we never had any problems with twisting - Pete May is very approachable so Paul could always ask the question - but as you say F word shafts are stronger.

Hi J. You say funds are limited. Well having built and rebuilt several cars, karts and motorcycles the advice given here already is spot on.
Buy a car that has everything done already. And make sure all the parts and work are recent and to a high standard. Building a car yourself takes a lot of time and research. It also costs an arm and a leg. On top of this you need a professional workshop with metal working and welding facilities, and of course you need to be able to weld competently.
Remember the mini's you see winning the autotests are highly devoloped and not anything like the ones that came out of the showrooms. Not to mention the skills and experience of our Irish drivers that are world class, and make it all look much easier than it really is.
So Mini or Starlet, get one that is already purpose built, its far cheaper.