How to build a Autotest/Multi Venue/Retro Rally Car?

For those of us contemplating preparing a car for use in Autotesting/Multi Venue/Retro Rallies it would be great if those who have already done it would post up information/tips/photos/links on how to go about it. Very Happy

To start things off, I found this thread on TheMiniForum where a guy documented the built of a lightweight Mini saloon for Autotesting.

Hi J, Autotesting and Multi-Venue/Retros have quite differing requirements. AN autotest car needs to be very light with relatively low an stiff suspension. MVAT's and Retros require a softly sprung car that is road legal.

Here are some basics for building an Autotest Starlet:
Remove as much weight as possible. Trim the doors, rear inside quarters, boot and bonnet. Remove the seats, dash, seatbelts and as much wiring as possible..

You will require a drivers seat without headrest and if possible a cut down fiberglass race seat...

Remove the petrol tank and replace with a smaller 4 litre tank nearer the front of the car. A marine fuel tank would suit and are cheap at approx €20

If the car doesn't come with power steering it is advisable to get it fitted whether electric (corsa unit) or hydraulic.

Regarding suspension; you will want to lower the car within an inch of the front bump stops and make sure the dampers are new or in good shape. Using 20% stiffer rear shocks and springs will help.

Retro / MVAT cars are built quite differently as they are driven on the road. You can simply use a standard road car (pre 1985 model / registered prior to 1989) with harnesses, Brantz trip meter & timer for retro trials.. For safety fit a fire extinguisher.
For the car handle better it is a help to fit quality dampers. To protect the sump it is a good idea to fit a sump guard.
A LSD is a benefit but not essential.

wow that mini saloon looks brilliant!

Excellent stuff Piers, thanks for posting up the photos! It's surprising how little info is out there on t'internet Surprised

Using a marine tank is an excellent idea for a efi engine.

Here's another link I found to Paul Swifts site showing pictures from the build of his Mini Special. The photos are a bit small but I think in one of them you can see he actually fitted what looks like his small fuel tank over the front passenger side wheel.

Mini Special Build

One thing I've heard mentioned in a number of places is people having modified their gearboxes (Minis in particular) to only have 1st, 2nd & reverse but I can find anyone documenting how they did it.

	J wrote:
	One thing I've heard mentioned in a number of places is people having modified their gearboxes (Minis in particular) to only have 1st, 2nd & reverse but I can find anyone documenting how they did it.

Basically in a mini box, 3rd and 4th are ground off the shaft allowing 3rd and 1st to be selected at the same time and therefore moving 1st to the 3rd slot.

Actually now I think about, I think its 4th and reverse, cant remember now. Rolling Eyes

Piers, do you have the suspension stiffened front and rear?

Last edited by Damien on Thu Oct 29, 2009 4:39 pm; edited 1 time in total

Yep, Its stiffened.. Cutting the springs down stiffens it quite a bit...

you not find it better soft?

Well its not that stiff at the front where traction is required, but its important to reduce weight transfer.. Its a trade off between lowering the roll center, limiting weight transfer and traction. Coilovers would be a big advantage except that they are expensive.. Without a limo it is important to have more suspension travel..

Having built a few racing cars I have a few ideas on how to build an autotest car especially with regard to lightening and stiffening. But has anyone any info on shocks or is that all classified.

Hi, The top option for the front are Koni Yellow adjustables, but they are expensive. I use Nissan Maxima ('95-'00) rear shocks; Just trim the lower eyelet shock mount slightly...

Thanks for that info. Nissan Maxima shocks would give more travel, which would be good multi venue type events, but what about autotests. I got a set of secondhand adjustable coilovers for the rear. They lower the car by 60mm but have less travel and stiffer springs so not for off road use but I guess they should be good for autotesting.
What about roll bars. Should I fit them. And what about an LSD. Does anyone know if the one from a GT Turbo will go into a 4 speed gearbox from a Soleil model.
And while I think of it, what are the best tyres to use on the front.

The Maxima shocks are for a pure autotest car and only what I came up with.. Too stiff for multi-venue. They are shorter than the std starlet ones.
Coilovers for the rear would be way too stiff; If the rear isn't compliant the rear hops and digs in.. With all the weight removed from the car it is very light at the rear (one person can lift it)...
No need for ARB's. Possibly one on the front if you have a decent amount of suspension travel...
You don't require an LSD to start with, but the one you want is a torsen type (Quaife) with the 6 bolt holes. The GT has an 8 bolt diff and comes with viscous or clutch type lsd's..
The standard is Yokohama A539 175/60 X 13. At the rear use cheap 135 X 13's
One of the lads from Northern Ireland supplies these tyres.. I think they are €45 each..

What tophock mounts would be good for a boxy multivenue starlet,

Hi JM, By 'tophock mounts ' I'm assuming you mean strut top mounts. The standard ones are fine if the rubber is in good condition.